Our first stop is Saint Nicholas Island, Southern Turkey. Turkey is closely associated with Christmas, and I don’t mean the feathered variety; Santa Claus came not from Lapland but from Lycia in southwestern Turkey. St Nicholas, or Sinterklaas as the Dutch would know him in the course of his fascinating posthumous odyssey through Christian history, was the fourth century bishop of Myra, now modern Demre.
Saint Nicholas Island, also known as Gemiler Island (Island of the Ships) in Turkish, is an uninhabited island barely a hundred metres offshore. When I get to the island, I climb through cobwebbed hollyoaks and olive trees which have forced their way between the skewed stone blocks of ruined walls, cisterns and fifth-century basilicas. The grand remains of a once-roofed processional way rise by a long series of steps to the island’s summit. This significant stop-off on the ancient pilgrimage route to the Holy Land was known since the Crusades as Saintt Nicholas Island.
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